I am the only one in my family who was born in B.C. All of the rest, even my younger siblings are from Alberta. Most of my extended family are spread across the Prairies so my immediate family exist through a degree of separation from things such as familial traditions, which in many cases include foods and the like. Growing up I often missed out on the classic nostalgia of “grandma’s cooking.” Which in turn meant that I never had any traditional kinds of foods from family growing up. However, I grew up in Steveston, so I replaced all that missing traditional food with what was around me. As I showcased in my previous blog I discussed my love of sushi, which also extends to many other Asian foods. To move on to what this blog will focus on. Along with my family being in other provinces, my heritage comes from all over the place, which made having traditional foods even more tricky. The perfect analogy to use for my heritage is total mut status that one would attribute to a dog. A bunch of different things. However, despite all of this difference, some things have trickled through, though not quite enough to be called traditional, they are still important to me. I am referring to Perogies due to the fraction of Ukrainian heritage in me. My blog post will focus on the origins of this food as well as its evolution through time and space. To finish it all off, I will discuss the importance of perogies, especially within the context of Canada.

The exact origins of perogies are under significant debate because there is no verifiable source for its emergence. However, just like many other foods, when there is mystery to where it came from there are myths and legends to fill in the blanks. The origin of perogies is no exception to this phenomenon. Most likely perogies were influenced by traditional dumplings from China.[1] Some legends claim that it was none other than Marco Polo himself who was responsible for the Chinese influence spreading into Eastern Europe which led to perogies.[2] Another legend holds that St. Hyacinth (the literal patron saint of perogies) travelled to Kiev, Ukraine in the 13^th century and brought perogies with him home to Poland, causing its growth in popularity.[3] Though several myths and legends exist, the general discourse holds that perogies were most likely influenced by dumplings from China and they came from Eastern Europe, most likely Ukraine. As perogies emerged in Eastern Europe they quickly diffused into nuanced varieties depending on where it was occurring.

Mosaic of Marco Polo. The explorers some legends claim is responsible for bringing the Chinese dumpling influence to Eastern Europe in his travels.

It did not take long for a wide variety of preparation methods, ingredients, and fillings of perogies to emerge within Eastern Europe alone.[4] All of this caused the perogy to explode in popularity and the food, no matter which variety, became a staple across Central and Eastern Europe.[5] This diffusion and popularity is evidenced by the ungodly number of slightly different variations of the name. Only some of the examples include, but are certainly not limited to, perogy, pyrogy, perogie, pirohy, pyrohy, and pirogen.[6] Like I said, an ungodly amount. Yes, it does reflect the variations well…but still. So far we have explored the evolution of perogies only within a specific region of Europe. However, perogies spread to many places around the globe, most notably to North America. Eastern European immigrants were responsible for the spread in the popularity of perogies in North America, especially in the Canadian Prairies. In the 19^th and 20^th centuries Eastern European immigrants, especially Poles and Ukrainians, settled in Canada and the U.S. in Significant numbers as they fit into the vision of ‘desired’ immigrants.[7] Many of these immigrants went to the Prairies because they were proficient farmers, which in many cases, was why they were targeted as desirable. As they moved into North America, these Eastern European immigrants brought with them their language, culture, and most relevant to this course, food. It is also important to note that the biggest wave of Polish immigrants especially to North America arrived both between the two world wars and after the Second due to the mass diaspora of people caused by the Holocaust and Nazi occupations.[8] This worked to further popularize perogies within North America. Perogies have come to be a significant part of Canadian food culture, especially within the Prairies where significant Eastern European populations reside. This popularity in Canada can be explained by the fact that this country has the third highest Ukrainian population in the world, only behind Russia and Ukraine itself.[9] Perogies were popularized within Canada first through Eastern European restaurants. By the 1960s, perogies were commonplace in grocery stores across North America.[10] In contemporary North America, especially in places such as the Canadian Prairies, perogies are considered a staple food due to its popularity and high-levels of consumption and production. One chef claimed that perogies were so popular in his restaurant that he labelled them the “Canadian Crack”[11] (Which I can attest to because they are wonderfully delicious).

Perogie festival in Kraków, Poland, that occurs on the Day of St. Hyacinth. Another figure in the legends of the origins of Perogies.        

Ukrainian farmers in Saskatchewan, early 1900s. Many Eastern European families immigrated to the Prairies, bringing perogies with them.   

Another important aspect when looking at perogies is to consider why they are important. At face value, perogies prove to be important simply because they have survived the test of time as they were carried on and spread by many people who lived through significant ordeals. However, to greater understand why perogies are important we must look at the symbolic and cultural meanings this food came to hold. Especially for Eastern European’s who emigrated to other countries, perogies served as a symbol of their culture.[12] For these immigrants, perogies served as a cultural and traditional anchor for which they could keep hold of their identities and a connection to where they come from. Additionally, this aspect of a cultural anchor works to explain the prevalence and importance of the perogie within North America. This importance is immortalized by the giant 2,700 Kilogram perogie statue that stands at 8 meters in height, which was erected in Glendon, Alberta.[13] Another important aspect to consider regarding the importance of the perogie is the discourse surrounding the food, and not all of it is positive. In the aforementioned paragraphs I discussed how common perogies have become in North America, being found in restaurants and grocery stores all over. To some Eastern Europeans, this is a negative because they feel contemporary perogies in North America have lost their traditional touch.[14] Which is not an irrational take on the situation as, especially in stores, there is a general, standardized form of perogie that is most available for consumers to purchase. This is viewed as an issue by some because it disregards the significant nuance around the many different variations of perogies from all across Central and Eastern Europe.[15] Many traditionalists work hard to ensure that the art of hand-making perogies lives on in a world that values fast and mass production more and more with each passing year.

The largest perogie in the world. The infamous giant perogie statue that was erected in Glendon, Alberta to celebrate both the Eastern European immigrants in the area as well as the importance of the food.

Traditional Ukrainian Varenyky, with the iconic handmade crimpled edges. The handmade aspect is vitally important to the traditions surrounding perogies.

In conclusion, Perogies have a complicated and exciting history, evidenced by their origins and the many ways in which they evolved and diffused across space and time. Perogies, being so important culturally, have long been used by immigrants as an anchor to tradition when moving to new places. Much discourse exists surrounding contemporary perogies. Discourse that encompasses positives, negatives, and everything in-between. Aside from all of that, perogies are popular around the world, and I am glad for it.

[1] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/, accessed March 17, 2023.

[2] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[3] Ancestral Findings, “Pierogi: The Traditional Dish From Central and Eastern Europe,” https://ancestralfindings.com/pierogi-the-traditional-dish-from-central-and-eastern-europe/, accessed March 17, 2023.

[4] Ancestral Findings, “Pierogi: The Traditional Dish From Central and Eastern Europe,” https://ancestralfindings.com/pierogi-the-traditional-dish-from-central-and-eastern-europe/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[5] Ancestral Findings, “Pierogi: The Traditional Dish From Central and Eastern Europe,” https://ancestralfindings.com/pierogi-the-traditional-dish-from-central-and-eastern-europe/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[6] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[7] Rhonda L. Hinther, Perogies and Politics: Canada’s Ukrainian Left, 1891-1991 (Toronto, 2018), 43.

[8] Hinther, Perogies and Politics, 44.

[9] Hinther, Perogies and Politics, 67.

[10] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[11] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[12] Hinther, Perogies and Politics, 101.

[13] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[14] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

[15] Gabby Peyton, “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie,” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023].

Bibliography: Ancestral Findings. “Pierogi: The Traditional Dish From Central and Eastern Europe.” https://ancestralfindings.com/pierogi-the-traditional-dish-from-central-and-eastern-europe/ [accessed March 17, 2023]. Hinther, Rhonda L. Perogies and Politics: Canada’s Ukrainian Left, 1891-1991. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2018. Peyton, Gabby. “Iconic Canadian Food: The History of the Perogie.” https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/iconic-canadian-food-the-history-of-the-pierogi/ [accessed March 17, 2023]. Image Citations: In Order of Appearance “Marco Polo Mosaic.” https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b0/Marco_Polo_Mosaic_from_Palazzo_Tursi.jpg [accessed March 17, 2023]. “Perogie Festival.” https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pierogi_6.jpg [accessed March 17, 2023]. “Ukrainians in Saskatchewan.” https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/99/Ukrainians_harvesting_in_Separator_Saskatchewan_21872147078.jpg [accessed March 17, 2023]. “World’s Largest Perogie.” https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/Worlds_Largest_Perogy.jpg [accessed March 17, 2023]. “Handmade Perogies.” https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bf/Varenyky_Ukrainian.jpg [accessed March 17, 2023].